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<channel>
	<title>Sam Eichblatt</title>
	<atom:link href="http://sameichblatt.com/feed/" rel="self" type="application/rss+xml" />
	<link>http://sameichblatt.com</link>
	<description>Freelance writer: Design, Architecture, Lifestyle</description>
	<lastBuildDate>Mon, 07 May 2012 16:34:18 +0000</lastBuildDate>
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		<title>Where Women Live in Fear</title>
		<link>http://sameichblatt.com/2012/03/26/1174/</link>
		<comments>http://sameichblatt.com/2012/03/26/1174/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 26 Mar 2012 03:04:09 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>sam</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Blog post]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Reportage]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Solomon Islands]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Women]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://sameichblatt.com/?p=1174</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Last year, I visited the Solomon Islands on a field trip run by Family Planning International, in order to cover the unbelievably low status of women in the country. A particularly toxic climate of religion, village tradition and lawlessness has created a culture in which a woman’s most basic human rights, including her sexual and [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><a href="http://sameichblatt.com/2012/03/26/1174/metro-3/" rel="attachment wp-att-1211"><img class="alignleft size-medium wp-image-1211" title="metro" src="http://sameichblatt.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/metro2-317x450.jpg" alt="" width="317" height="450" /></a>Last year, I visited the Solomon Islands on a field trip run by Family Planning International, in order to cover the unbelievably low status of women in the country. A particularly toxic climate of religion, village tradition and lawlessness has created a culture in which a woman’s most basic human rights, including her sexual and reproductive rights, count for next to nothing. I&#8217;ve been working on several reports from the trip, and the first is running in the April issue of Metro magazine, out today — <a href="http://sameichblatt.com/portfolio/places/where-women-live-in-fear/">follow this link to the full version</a>. It&#8217;s not a pleasant read, but it would be nice to think that a greater awareness of the situation could bring some pressure to bear on Pacific leaders, whose response to date has been the political equivalent of putting your fingers in your ears and singing tunelessly to block out accusations of corruption, self-interest and just plain old apathy.</p>
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		<title>Norman Foster &amp; Good Housekeeping</title>
		<link>http://sameichblatt.com/2012/03/10/norman-foster-good-housekeeping/</link>
		<comments>http://sameichblatt.com/2012/03/10/norman-foster-good-housekeeping/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sat, 10 Mar 2012 03:17:52 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>sam</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Blog post]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Architecture]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[New York]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://sameichblatt.com/?p=1002</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[A British starchitect and the USA&#8217;s most established women&#8217;s magazine make unusual cubicle buddies. I got an impromptu tour of Foster + Partners&#8216; NYC office today, from an architect friend who works there. It&#8217;s up by Central Park, in a corner of the Hearst Tower magazine empire — which Foster designed, hence the connection. It&#8217;s [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><a href="http://sameichblatt.com/2012/03/10/norman-foster-good-housekeeping/hearstowernyc/" rel="attachment wp-att-1017"><img class="alignleft size-full wp-image-1017" title="Hearstowernyc" src="http://sameichblatt.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/Hearstowernyc.jpg" alt="" width="250" height="375" /></a>A British starchitect and the USA&#8217;s most established women&#8217;s magazine make unusual cubicle buddies.</p>
<p>I got an impromptu tour of <a href="http://www.fosterandpartners.com" target="_blank">Foster + Partners</a>&#8216; NYC office today, from an architect friend who works there. It&#8217;s up by Central Park, in a corner of the Hearst Tower magazine empire — which Foster designed, hence the connection. It&#8217;s a bit shiny and imperialistic for my taste, but it does have incredible views.</p>
<p><span id="more-1002"></span>Models of the enormous projects the practice works on were laid out everywhere, some of them complete city blocks made of moveable pieces of wood and furnished with little trees and cars, some of them large (and expensive) pieces from a 3D printer.</p>
<p>The scale and level of investment are huge; after all, their work includes apartment buildings with US$10 million condos in them. Jai told me the practice hires a &#8220;balloon man&#8221; who takes panoramic images from the proposed building site at the height of every unbuilt floor, to show clients what they can expect to see from their windows. They had some of these shoots displayed around his office and you could see why — if there was any city that could sell a building purely on views, it&#8217;s New York.</p>
<p>Then, we took a trip to the <em><a href="http://www.goodhousekeeping.com/" target="_blank">Good Housekeeping</a></em> labs. Launched in 1885, the magazine is one of America&#8217;s oldest, and product testing and comparison is one of the pillars of its remit. Each lab was behind a glass wall; a room of hairdryers, a room of hoovers containing a treadmill-like contraption with a piece of continuously moving orange carpet, a testing kitchen with dozens of different brand ovens, and a row of women all eating new flavours of ice-cream and filling in forms about it. It made me think a little of Willy Wonka&#8217;s factory; perhaps because it all smelled like freshly baked chocolate biscuits.</p>
<p>The original <em>Good Housekeeping</em> dining room has also been recreated here. We&#8217;re talking a 19th-century provincial dining room with its own china dinner service. With a fake window suggesting the sun is shining outside. High up in the centre of a massive Norman Foster office building, 20-something floors above central Manhattan. Surreal is an understatement.</p>
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		<title>Jim Garrison: Brooklyn</title>
		<link>http://sameichblatt.com/2012/03/06/jim-garrison/</link>
		<comments>http://sameichblatt.com/2012/03/06/jim-garrison/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 05 Mar 2012 15:54:39 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>sam</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Blog post]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Architecture]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Design]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[New York]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Profile]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Sustainable design]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://sameichblatt.com/?p=988</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[One of my biggest projects over the last couple of years has been interviewing people in different cities about their own brand of creativity, and what it means for them to work in that city. Over the next few weeks, I&#8217;ll be posting the best of them up here, starting with Jim Garrison, the principle [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>One of my biggest projects over the last couple of years has been interviewing people in different cities about their own brand of creativity, and what it means for them to work in that city. Over the next few weeks, I&#8217;ll be posting the best of them up here, starting with Jim Garrison, the principle at the progressive Garrison Architects, who were responsible for Red Hook Green, New York&#8217;s first sustainable, zero-energy building.<br />
<span id="more-988"></span><strong></strong></p>
<p><strong><a href="http://sameichblatt.com/2012/03/06/jim-garrison/garrison/" rel="attachment wp-att-989"><img class="alignleft size-medium wp-image-989" title="garrison" src="http://sameichblatt.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/garrison-450x299.jpg" alt="" width="450" height="299" /></a>Jim Garrison, Principal, <a href="www.garrisonarchitects.com" target="_blank">Garrison Architects</a>, DUMBO</strong></p>
<p>Jim Garrison teaches at the Pratt Institute as well as running Garrison Architects, which is breaking ground on New York’s first zero-energy building when we speak. He tells a story about one of his colleagues, who recently set a class project on post-Zombie War housing (after the Max Brooks novel <em>World War Z: An Oral History of the Zombie War</em>). “There are all these post-apocalyptic dreams out there now,” he says at one point. Living in this city, and being an architect, it would be impossible not to wonder: what next?</p>
<p>“The culture of New York evolves quickly,” he says. “But the creative culture of Manhattan has more or less exhausted itself.” He puts it down to simple economics. When the artists fled to Brooklyn, his practice wasn’t far behind. “There’s a certain vibe to its character – it’s a hotbed of ideas and risk taking, which all worked to bring us over.”</p>
<p>The recession means, he says, there are virtually no houses being built now. Garrison’s other projects are mostly in the public sector, and include a plaza in the oldest commercial centre of the Bronx, “where all the grids collide,” combining sustainability, transport, urban design and construction.</p>
<p>A progressive new transport commissioner, the city’s ongoing attempt to create more green space, and the chance to make a difference has given Garrison a lot of optimism about the future. He eventually plans to produce buildings that not only support their own heating and cooling, but produce enough energy to pay for their construction over their lifetime. “The issues that affect us affect everyone – they just affect us, perhaps, more strongly. Every project these days has too little money, too little time, and disrupts too many neighbours. And there are multiple interested groups with something to say about it. That makes it a very complex stew.”</p>
<p>www.garrisonarchitects.com</p>
<p>Images <strong>© Emily Andrews</strong></p>
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		<title>Herbsts rule</title>
		<link>http://sameichblatt.com/2012/02/18/herbsts-rule/</link>
		<comments>http://sameichblatt.com/2012/02/18/herbsts-rule/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sat, 18 Feb 2012 03:24:13 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>sam</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Blog post]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Magazine article]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Architecture]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Australian Design Review]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Beach houses]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Design]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Herbst Architects]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Houses]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Sustainable design]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://sameichblatt.com/?p=979</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[A couple of stories I wrote on that great kiwi institution, the bach, have been posted on the Australian Design Review site, including one from my favourite practice, Herbst Architects. They have a way of recreating the camping experience — setting up a half-in, half-out adaptable group of spaces with lots of air and natural [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><a href="http://sameichblatt.com/2012/02/18/herbsts-rule/herbst-architects-timms-bach-4/" rel="attachment wp-att-984"><img class="alignleft size-medium wp-image-984" title="Herbst-Architects-Timms-Bach-4" src="http://sameichblatt.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/Herbst-Architects-Timms-Bach-4-450x289.jpg" alt="" width="450" height="289" /></a>A couple of stories I wrote on that great kiwi institution, the bach, have been posted on the <a href="http://www.australiandesignreview.com/interiors/12792-timms-bach" target="_blank">Australian Design Review site</a>, including one from my favourite practice, <a href="http://herbstarchitects.co.nz/" target="_blank">Herbst Architects</a>. They have a way of recreating the camping experience — setting up a half-in, half-out adaptable group of spaces with lots of air and natural light, all arranged around the food prep area (an obvious priority) — that reminds me of all the holidays my family took in our mustard-orange 1960s VW Combi in South Africa when I was little. <span id="more-979"></span>The Herbsts, Nicola and Lance, are from South Africa, so there&#8217;s an obvious point of reference for me. But they also just do really great beach houses and, it seems, they&#8217;re going from strength to strength — I wrote about their new project in Piha beach for <a href="http://monocle.com/" target="_blank">Monocle</a> this month, and it&#8217;s also under consideration for the HOME NZ Home of the Year Award. Good luck guys!</p>
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		<title>On the cover&#8230;</title>
		<link>http://sameichblatt.com/2012/02/05/919/</link>
		<comments>http://sameichblatt.com/2012/02/05/919/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sat, 04 Feb 2012 23:26:46 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>sam</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Blog post]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Architecture]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Art]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Design]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[France]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[HOME NZ]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[New York]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Profile]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://sameichblatt.com/?p=919</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Out this week, HOME magazine&#8217;s art issue. The cover story is the first from the European trip I did at the end of last year with Emily Andrews, and features a house in France belonging to the former Auckland art dealer Anna Bibby. Also inside, the Brooklyn apartment contemporary artist Martin Basher and his partner, [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><a href="http://sameichblatt.com/2012/02/05/919/cover/" rel="attachment wp-att-925"><img class="alignleft size-full wp-image-925" title="HOME cover Feb 2012" src="http://sameichblatt.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/Cover--e1328398602115.jpg" alt="" width="290" height="370" /></a>Out this week, HOME magazine&#8217;s art issue. The cover story is the first from the European trip I did at the end of last year with <a href="http://emilyandrewsphoto.com/" target="_blank">Emily Andrews</a>, and features a house in France belonging to the former Auckland art dealer Anna Bibby. Also inside, the Brooklyn apartment contemporary artist <a href="http://www.martinbasher.com/" target="_blank">Martin Basher</a> and his partner, the TV producer Martha Jeffries, have made their home. Stay posted for more stories from the trip over the next few months&#8230;.</p>
<p>The magazine is on newstands Monday the 6th February. BOOM.</p>
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		<title>Low-fi goodness</title>
		<link>http://sameichblatt.com/2011/12/08/hes-a-jolly-good-fellow/</link>
		<comments>http://sameichblatt.com/2011/12/08/hes-a-jolly-good-fellow/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 07 Dec 2011 23:50:21 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>sam</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Blog post]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Design]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Furniture]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[London]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://sameichblatt.com/?p=914</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[London: Last week I met up with the talented and hilariously deadpan Phil Cuttance in his Kentish Town workshop. Emily Andrews photographed him with his new range of Faceture vases, and the hand-made roto-molding machine he&#8217;s taking to Milan as a street installation. You can see a short film of the process, here, and more [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><strong>London</strong>: Last week I met up with the talented and hilariously deadpan <a href="http://www.philcuttance.com/" target="_blank">Phil Cuttance</a> in his Kentish Town workshop. <a href="http://emilyandrewsphoto.com/" target="_blank">Emily Andrews</a> photographed him with his new range of <em>Faceture</em> vases, and the hand-made roto-molding machine he&#8217;s taking to Milan as a street installation. You can see a short film of the process, <a href="http://www.philcuttance.com/index.php?/faceture-project/film---making-of-a-vase/" target="_blank">here</a>, and more of Emily&#8217;s pics of Phil after the jump.<span id="more-914"></span></p>

<a href='http://sameichblatt.com/2011/12/08/hes-a-jolly-good-fellow/po18728/' title='PO18728'><img width="185" height="185" src="http://sameichblatt.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/PO18728-185x185.jpg" class="attachment-thumbnail" alt="PO18728" title="PO18728" /></a>
<a href='http://sameichblatt.com/2011/12/08/hes-a-jolly-good-fellow/po18667/' title='PO18667'><img width="185" height="185" src="http://sameichblatt.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/PO18667-185x185.jpg" class="attachment-thumbnail" alt="PO18667" title="PO18667" /></a>
<a href='http://sameichblatt.com/2011/12/08/hes-a-jolly-good-fellow/po18830/' title='PO18830'><img width="185" height="185" src="http://sameichblatt.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/PO18830-185x185.jpg" class="attachment-thumbnail" alt="PO18830" title="PO18830" /></a>

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		<title>Helen Friel</title>
		<link>http://sameichblatt.com/2011/11/29/903/</link>
		<comments>http://sameichblatt.com/2011/11/29/903/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 29 Nov 2011 02:44:46 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>sam</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Blog post]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Design]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Graphic]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Illustration]]></category>
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		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://sameichblatt.com/?p=903</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[South London-based Helen Friel had to create a new job description for what she does. The term &#8220;paper engineer&#8221; sounds surreal; against the images of heavy duty machinery and algorithms the word &#8220;engineer&#8221; conjures up, paper is a contradictorily throwaway presence. However, Friel&#8217;s craft-based design process, where she cuts and assembles paper to create inventive [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><a href="http://sameichblatt.com/2011/11/29/903/friel/" rel="attachment wp-att-907"><img class="alignleft size-medium wp-image-907" title="Friel" src="http://sameichblatt.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/Friel-345x450.jpg" alt="" width="345" height="450" /></a>South London-based <a href="http://www.helenfriel.com" target="_blank">Helen Friel</a> had to create a new job description for what she does. The term &#8220;paper engineer&#8221; sounds surreal; against the images of heavy duty machinery and algorithms the word &#8220;engineer&#8221; conjures up, paper is a contradictorily throwaway presence. However, Friel&#8217;s craft-based design process, where she cuts and assembles paper to create inventive images for <em>Tatler</em> and <em>Vanity Fair</em>, and a range of commercial clients, is pretty straightforward.</p>
<p><span id="more-903"></span>She loved pop-up books as a child, worked at a greetings card company after graduating from Central St Martins, and rather than a sketchpad, she uses Post-It notes, which she moves around to build up the finished product.</p>
<p>She also works on personal book projects that play on our relationship with everyday paper. For example, <em>The Imp of the Perverse</em> requires its readers to tear and fold pages to reveal sections of the text — everything you were always told not to do to a book. Her most recent, <em>For Matters of Life and Death</em>, is a well-designed series of cashier’s dockets and entry tickets for surreal situations.</p>
<p>Friel works from the Papered Parlour in Clapham, an artspace inhabited by a group of like-minded artists and designers. (I recently interviewed her for a Swedish design industry title). Find her online at www.helenfriel.com</p>
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		<title>Planes, trains and automobiles</title>
		<link>http://sameichblatt.com/2011/08/29/planes-trains-and-automobiles/</link>
		<comments>http://sameichblatt.com/2011/08/29/planes-trains-and-automobiles/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 29 Aug 2011 05:45:03 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>sam</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Blog post]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Web article]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Sustainable design]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Transport]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://sameichblatt.com/?p=844</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Amusingly, with the launch of the new Herald sustainability magazine Element, I seem to be getting all the car and transport gigs. (Well, it&#8217;s funny to me as I have neither a car nor a work commute, though I guess no-one would actually know that. I don&#8217;t think the editor does.) I do spend a [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Amusingly, with the launch of the new Herald sustainability magazine <em>Element</em>, I seem to be getting all the <a href="http://www.elementmagazine.co.nz/world/transport/electric-cars-hit-town/" target="_blank">car</a> and <a href="http://www.elementmagazine.co.nz/world/transport/all-bunged-up-nowhere-to-go/" target="_blank">transport</a> gigs. (Well, it&#8217;s funny to me as I have neither a car nor a work commute, though I guess no-one would actually know that. I don&#8217;t think the editor does.) <span id="more-844"></span></p>
<p>I do spend a lot of time comparing Auckland&#8217;s transport network unfavourably with those of other cities, though. The first story on the introduction of all-electric cars to our fair isles was in Element&#8217;s launch issue, <a href="http://www.elementmagazine.co.nz/world/transport/electric-cars-hit-town/" target="_blank">here</a>, and the next, on Auckland&#8217;s transport congestion, <a href="http://www.elementmagazine.co.nz/world/transport/all-bunged-up-nowhere-to-go/" target="_blank">here</a>.</p>
<p>I don&#8217;t wish to sound smug, but I can&#8217;t remember the last time I was in a traffic jam. Oh wait — actually, I am OK with sounding smug on that one small point, as I&#8217;m usually the person waiting 20 minutes for one of Auckland&#8217;s ghost buses, or experiencing a damp near-death by SUV at the Ponsonby Road pedestrian crossing because when it rains in Auckland, the road rules are replaced with THE LAW OF THE JUNGLE.</p>
<p>So I am basically <em>The Young Ones</em>&#8216; Neil, in a lady suit. Just an umbrella and that large chip on my shoulder to keep me motivated.</p>
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		<title>Tank Farm</title>
		<link>http://sameichblatt.com/2011/08/18/tank-farm/</link>
		<comments>http://sameichblatt.com/2011/08/18/tank-farm/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 17 Aug 2011 22:17:46 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>sam</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Blog post]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Architecture]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Indesignlive]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Public buildings]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Urban design]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://sameichblatt.com/?p=839</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Indesign just put up my news piece on Auckland&#8217;s new Tank Farm development — incidentally, it&#8217;s just down the road from my house. Quite exciting to see the city getting something actually quite large and bold in terms of urban redevelopment, without too much politicking or getting bogged down in micro turf wars. The landscape [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Indesign just put up my <a href="http://www.indesignlive.com/articles/in-review/report/The-Tank-Farm-Urban-Project-for-Auckland#axzz1VKIq8moU" target="_blank">news piece on Auckland&#8217;s new Tank Farm development </a>— incidentally, it&#8217;s just down the road from my house. Quite exciting to see the city getting something actually quite large and bold in terms of urban redevelopment, without too much politicking or getting bogged down in micro turf wars. The landscape programme is rumoured to be &#8220;very <a href="www.thehighline.org" target="_blank">High Line</a>&#8221; too. Intriguing. I&#8217;m interested to see how this develops and becomes integrated into urban life over the next few years.</p>
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		<title>Solomon Islands</title>
		<link>http://sameichblatt.com/2011/06/15/solomon-islands/</link>
		<comments>http://sameichblatt.com/2011/06/15/solomon-islands/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 15 Jun 2011 10:35:47 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>sam</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Blog post]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Solomon Islands]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Travel]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Women]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://sameichblatt.com/?p=815</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[To paraphrase an old comedian, a funny thing happened on the way between my station on the dining table, the fridge and the radio the other day. Having recently decided I need to absorb more ambient information, and lacking colleagues, free Tube papers, sandwich boards and water-cooler conversation to keep me informed, I tuned in [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>To paraphrase an old comedian, a funny thing happened on the way between my station on the dining table, the fridge and the radio the other day. <span id="more-815"></span></p>
<p>Having recently decided I need to absorb more ambient information, and lacking colleagues, free Tube papers, sandwich boards and water-cooler conversation to keep me informed, I tuned in to National Radio. One of the first things I half-listened to while I pottered about was a story about a pioneering female journalist (exact name now lost to brain fog) working in war-torn or developing countries. There was a moment where I stopped, looked over at the radio and thought, &#8220;That&#8217;s what I&#8217;d really like to do&#8221;.</p>
<p>On its own, that wouldn&#8217;t have been the most amazing revelation, had an email not suddenly arrived the following day from Family Planning International, via a friend who works at the Aids Foundation (well, I guess they have condoms in common). The FPI were looking for a journalist to join a research tour to the Solomon Islands, studying women&#8217;s development, rights and sexual and reproductive health. I fired off an email, expecting little. Less than ten minutes later, a response arrived from the FPI director, wanting more information. Turns out, they were actually quite excited about getting a freelance journalist to come along, because it means more outlets for the stories I generate. Three weeks on, I&#8217;ve just got shots for hepatitis A, typhoid, influenza, measles and yellow fever. My Facebook status update reads: &#8220;One dead arm closer to the Solomon Islands.&#8221; I also spell hepatitis wrong, which is embarrassing.</p>
<p>Here&#8217;s what I knew about the Solomon Islands three weeks ago: they are an archipelago in the Pacific.That&#8217;s pretty much it.</p>
<p>A note on Facebook asking for information garnered the following responses:</p>
<p>Phillip: &#8220;Lots of gingers, strange kind of pidgin English is spoken, church may last all day.&#8221;</p>
<p>Rose: &#8220;They have awesome warlords.&#8221;</p>
<p>Claris: &#8220;I heard they have Friday night fights where they set spiders against small mice.&#8221;</p>
<p>Christine: &#8220;What  do you want  to know about apart  from spiders? And if I were you, I&#8217;d be  more worried about the shower toads.&#8221;</p>
<p>I also got slightly more useful offers from a doctor who did a three-month elective there, and a fellow journalist who has family there and written a number of stories about the islands — one of which included interviewing said warlords while doing fieldwork with the army.</p>
<p>Here&#8217;s what I know today. There are over 1,000 islands in the archipelago. (I am <em>never</em> going to get tired of saying that word.) Inheritance is matrilineal, from mother to daughter. The islands were never colonised, as such, and so don&#8217;t suffer from the colonial hangover of other Pacific nations like Vanuatu and New Caledonia. There are two dominant local cultures, the Melanesians and the Malaitans, who are Polynesian. Life is very, very simple. As the journalist told it, people outside the capital, Honiara, live in leaf huts, and wash in streams or under a communal tap. There&#8217;s plenty of seafood and the land is very fertile — which is lucky, as the population is very poor.</p>
<p>Tension between the majority Melanesians, and the Polynesians, who hail from some of the outlying islands but are represented in high numbers in Honiara as well, led to a civil war in 1999, which only calmed down when the Regional Assistance Mission to Solomon Islands (RAMSI) arrived. This included police and troops from Australia, New Zealand and other Pacific countries, and is still the Solomons&#8217; primary security force. <a title="Regional Assistance Mission to Solomon Islands" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Regional_Assistance_Mission_to_Solomon_Islands"><span style="text-decoration: underline;"><span style="color: #000000;"> </span></span></a></p>
<p>I also know that there&#8217;s a &#8220;tank graveyard&#8221; somewhere full of scrapped American military equipment from the Second World War, and that if you swim out of a particular bay at low tide, you can stand on the nose of a sunken Japanese fighter plane. That would be awesome.</p>
<p>I still don&#8217;t know what shower toads are, though.</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
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